We spent a day in Mobile, visiting the sights. It was early Mardi Gras, and the city prides itself on being the "original" Mardi Gras site, before New Orleans. It turns out that Dauphin Island was the original capital of the French Louisiane territory. After the first hurricane, the capital was quickly moved inland to Mobile, and later transferred to New Orleans. But Mobile started the Mardi Gras tradition, which is still very much in evidence. Theirs is a more family friendly, less touristy, and less drunken version of the New Orleans ceremony. We also visited the Museum of Mobile, which had some well thought out historical exhibits chronicling the development of the area from the cotton era to the present. A treat. A surprise was the New Orleans Museum of Art, which we liked very much. They had an excellent collection of paintings and a sculpture garden that was one of the best we've ever seen. We also visited the Louisiana State Museum, with its extensive exhibit around Hurricane Katrina and the history of severe weather events in New Orleans. We saw a very nice jazz group down on Frenchmen Street, one of the quieter areas for music right next to the French Quarter. We found that we had little tolerance for the level of loud and drunken partying in the French Quarter and could only tolerate the area for a short time.
It was sad to see how much damage New Orleans still exhibits, even five years or more after the hurricane. As you drive around the city outside the French Quarter, there are large areas that are still leveled and show no signs of rebuilding. There are huge open fields with foundations still showing, and abandoned houses that still show the legendary marks of the triage people who checked them for damage and scrawled figures on the outside. It's such a shame that more cannot be done to bring this city back from the catastrophe.
We moved on to the town of Breaux Bridge, near Lafayette, in the heart of Cajun country. We kept our focus on food, but shifted the emphasis to the more Cajun and Creole pleasures of this area. We sampled a lot of the local boudin sausages, jambalaya and gumbo. There were cinnamon coated pecans, bread pudding, and lots of local treats. The folks in this area are justly proud of their cuisine, and they spend a lot of time comparing different versions of their classics. We did our best to help out.
The previous events and parades that we had seen in other cities were leading up to the actual day, but on Mardi Gras itself we were in Breaux Bridge. We decided to do something different, and went off to a small town festival held in Iota, Louisiana, which celebrated Mardi Gras with a Cajun twist. The celebration was quite different, small and manageable, with local folks dressed up in traditional costumes called capuchons, who arrived in a big parade and then danced and demanded quarters thrown from the audience. There were several bands playing Cajun and Creole music, and lots of dancing in the streets. There was little or no alcohol and the whole party was over by five in the afternoon. We loved it. And the food was great, too. Here's a rather crude video that we took with our little camera, but I think it will give you the flavor.
From here, we are headed off along the Gulf Coast toward the bottom tip of Texas. Then we will head back up the Rio Grande and across the southwest. Home by the Fourth of July! It's hard to believe.
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